I CAN"T DECIDE!! I want a new cage for my hamster she isn't a dwarf but is kinda small here are the choses
cage1 (i think i like its look better, but is it good enough?http://www.petco.com/product/15483/super...
cage2 (has levels and i will get a new wheel for ithttp://www.petco.com/shop/product.aspx?s...
cage3(I also like this a lot but is it any good?http://www.bunnybasics.net/images/critte...
Answers:
Cage #1 Looks cool awsome tubes and lotsa room... but it'll be a pain to clean.
Cage #2 Good cage but you're hamster might climb and fall and that might not happen but I still dont like it... Bit it'll be easier to clean
Cage #3 Looks like Cage #1 But Still like #1
donno why but I do.
i like the 1st one better like you do! it looks so cool and hamsters LOVE tubes! Have fun!
I haven't owned a hamster since I was a kid but I remember mine loved those Habitrail cages with all the plastic tubes and different compartments. They love to crawl and burrow around...
I like the first one the best. Its colourful =D
cage 2 is the biggest, it looks like, which is usually the best, but you also need to get a wheel for it. with one of the others, you could get tubes and connect a few together, though.
you should get the first one then later buy the third one and then your hamster will have tons of room
I would recommend the first one. There is a fun wheel in it, there is some good room, and, I am not sure, but you might be able to add more tubes to the cage! Can your small hamster climb through the tubes? I have two female dwarf hamsters, and I read that they don't like second levels and that they are too small to go through the tubes. Is yours like this? I was just woundering, and making sure. But, I am sure that your hamster will be fine!
Thanks for taking this answer, and good luck!
My sister has a hamster and I have a gerbil and we both have that cage for them. I love it it is easy to clean and they have lenty of room and they sell attachments to add on to that cage. Defiantly get that one your hamster will love it.
i like the first one. it looks like a lot of fun for ur hamster they love those tube things. also just know that the wheel ball thing on top might turn into a bed or that other spot on top. i used to have a hamster and her wheel was on the side of the cage. she used to put bedding and food in there and she also had another compartmend on the other side of her cage (much like the one on the top left of urs) that she would sleep in. she was really cute. her cage was basicly urs but the wheel and sleeping area had short tubes to get in and they were on the sides. good luck!
ps it might help if u put a pic of the cage u have on so that people have somthing to compare the new ones to/
cage three
This one:
http://www.petco.com/shop/product.aspx?s...
Because i have had the same kind as the other two, [mine was bigger] and they are a pain in the rear to clean. its such a hassle, and not worth it. I would pick the middle
i prefer the first one it look more fun in it. But is a bit too cramp
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
try this cage for a girl.
or
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
this one for a boy or a girl
Monday, May 24, 2010
What cage should i get for my hamster?
What cage should i get my hamster, like what type.
Answers:
The wire cages that are being suggested are really not good. Not only could the hamster fall from quite some distance as it climbs higher up the bars, but if you hamster is a very determined one, it could develop bar rub- a condition where the fur on it's nose and face is rubbed away as it obsessively chews on the bars. Just do a quick search here on petqna.com s and you can see the number of hamsters that have this. I just answered a question about "fur loss on my hamsters face between its nose and eyes" a few days ago. In more serious cases, the hamster will actually chew at the bars to the point that the bars will cut its face. In the worst case scenario, the hamster will permanently loose its fur on that part of its face and develop scars and callouses. I'm not trying to scare you, just offer you the best advice that I can. The other terrible thing about those cages is that the wheels are far to small for anything but a mouse or dwarf hamster. The only thing those cages have going for them is their price.
The Crittertrails and SAM cages, while fun looking, are not at all practical. They are very hard to clean and even harder to get the hamster out of. They can get a bit expensive and really are just not worth what you would pay for them. If you are really drawn to the tubes and mazes, perhaps just get one as a playground but I wouldn't recommend them for their cage. The tubes would have to be taken apart and cleaned each week and that would get pretty old by the second cage cleaning. It is also hard to see you hamster in these kinds of cages.
If you're concerned with finding a cheap way to house just one hamster, here's my suggestion. Purchase a 10 gallon aquarium for $10, a metal tank lid for $10 (sold in the reptile row/area), a chew-proof, climb-proof water bottle (made by Lixit) for $6, a plastic solid 8" exercise wheel by Super Pet (called a Comfort Wheel) (small wheels- anything with a diameter less than 8"- and "normal" metal bar ones are harmful) for $5 and a hut for $5. This will give you the basic set-up for under $40. If you have a Pet Supplies Plus near you, shop there, they're cheaper and carry all the products I've listed.
One of the new alternatives that we hamster breeders are using are plastic bins. These make great cages! They are very inexpensive in that you can buy a bin for less than $10. There is a little bit of manual labor involved but it's worth it. The bins are light and very easy to carry and move and best of all, they are extremely easy to clean. The bedding doesn't stick to them the way it does in any of the above mentioned cages. Get a clear bin and you can easily see your friend. Get one that's tall enough to hold the wheel when the lid is on.
Here is a California Hamster Association article on how to convert a plastic bin:
http://www.geocities.com/calhamassoc/fea...
-Janice
http://www.holmdenhillhaven.com...
Depending on the type, one with bars is best it gives the hamster excersize climbing up it, plus you can get one with attachments so it isnt bored. A plastic was is good for starting out but with them the hamster will become bored after awhile so its best to go straight for a barred caged
the best cage for a hamster is a 10 gallon aquarium and probably the cheapest. iall you need is a screen cover that attaches tightly to the tank. hamsters can chew their way out of plastic and wire cages. it is also the easiest to clean. take your hammy out and place him in a clear plastic hamster ball and let him roll around while you are cleaning it!! make sure the cleaning agents you use are safe for animals!
You have to get a cage that has a tiny house and a exercise wheel. Oh yeah, buy some sawdust too and spread it on the base of the cage.
the best design I have had as far as Hamsters go is very simple. just a white grid cage for the top and the four walls and for the bottom it was heavy duty plastic (designed so the bars would snap into grooves halfway up the plastic, it was also easy assembly and only 20$), and believe me, my Hamster tried to chew it's way out theres a hole in every corner (very tiny though no where near big enough to even get a ham's paw through) but the plastic was made so that it could never be able to chew a hole anywhere near being able to escape through. I got it at petsmart and i have never had a ham escape from it. (the other ones I had they did but i always keep my room's door shut so i was able to find them) It is easy to clean though I would put something under it because shaving do go over the sides and make a mess.
I highly recommend critter trail cages. I have the Critter Trail 3 and the Critter Trail 2. They are great cages. If you don't get Critter Trail cages, then make sure you get a cage that does not have wire floors, they can get their feet stuck and they can break. Same goes for the exercise wheel, make sure its plastic. Good Luck!
Its always a good idea to give any rodent a cage with a few levels ... it keeps them busy ... My hamsters cage has three levels ...
The first level is where his main source of food and shelter is as well as his exercises wheel
the second level I have a little hut that has a few differant holes in it .. he like to go up there and nap
the third level is where I put his fresh veggies ... this keeps him active ... he knows where to go to get his veggies
Also once every couple of days I hide about 6 or 7 Little dry treats around in his cage ... this keeps him foraging ... that makes him feel like he is still independent LOL
you should also get him a ball so he can rome around the house for an hour or so!!
Usually the best kind of cage to buy with levels would be a small Rat cage ...
Good Luck
What kind of hammy are you getting? Any hamster cage will work. Its whatever looks like your hamster would have fun in. If you have a Targot somwhere where you live they have a really nice hamster cage. And stuff thats good for your liitle friend.
crittertrail Dazzle sold at petsmart and petco
plastic types of cages would do. just make sure that it is big enough for your pet.
Here is my guide to cages found on my website http://www.freewebs.com/hamsterhighway/i...
It has all you need to know, plus my reccomendations!
Any other question e-mail me @ joe10994@comcast.net
BUT FIRST LOOK AT MY SITE
First, for regular hamsters. The most common type is an Aquarium. They have plenty of good reasons to buy one. One is there is an extremely clear view of your pet. They give enough room to house about four adult dwarfs, or one Syrian and are easy to maintain. They're very inexpensive (approximately $10 if you get a small one). You will need a wire cover as well. They're hard to knock over, safe, and escape-proof, if you get clips for a few bucks. Keep it out of direct sunlight and your hamster will be just fine. The best thing about aquariums, though, is the fact that they're so easy to clean out.
Second, is wire cages. Wire cages are well-ventilated, sturdy, lightweight, fairly easy to clean, and very economical. They cost anywhere from $8 to $20 dollars, depending on size. The only problems are the fact that drafts easily penetrate the cage and can cause pneumonia in the hamster. Also, hamsters tend to kick the bedding out of the cage and make a big mess. Otherwise, these homes are easy to maintain and easy to carry around, plus there are usually a few levels for fun!
Last is HAMSTER PARADISE! Plastic Homes. They have plastic bottoms,wire walls, plastic tops, usually tubes for fun, an exercise wheel, a petting zone, and more! They are commonly refereed to as Crittertrails, Habitrails, or SAM cages. They're colorful, durable, and fun to piece together. Hamsters enjoy them very much. These cages are considerably more expensive than wire cages or aquariums. They range from $30 to $90 dollars. You can buy additional add-on tubes to give your hamster more play areas. Also, water bottles, food bowls, and wheels are positioned on the outside of the home, allowing more running and nesting space for your dwarf. The tubes are a little tricky to clean out, but as long as you clean the cage weekly, it's not usually a problem. They can have infinite Accessories, and are very fun! Perfect for any hamster!
(This Is My Reccomendation, as you can get a small cage, then slowly add on to it as the years go by) (plus its just HAMSTER PARADISE)
------------------------------...
(INCASE YOU GET A DWARF)
For Dwarf Hamsters, the cages have to be a bit different. The plastic homes are ok for fat dwarfs only, (about 30% of the time but you dont want to risk it)because they are too small for the tubes when they are vertical. There are special cages for mice and dwarfs so don't worry. Also, don't get a wire cage if it has bars more then .5 CM apart. There is a high chance the dwarf will be able to squeeze through and escape!!! If i were to get another dwarf, i would get an aquarium tank, they are perfect for them!! GOOD LUCK!!!!!!
Answers:
The wire cages that are being suggested are really not good. Not only could the hamster fall from quite some distance as it climbs higher up the bars, but if you hamster is a very determined one, it could develop bar rub- a condition where the fur on it's nose and face is rubbed away as it obsessively chews on the bars. Just do a quick search here on petqna.com s and you can see the number of hamsters that have this. I just answered a question about "fur loss on my hamsters face between its nose and eyes" a few days ago. In more serious cases, the hamster will actually chew at the bars to the point that the bars will cut its face. In the worst case scenario, the hamster will permanently loose its fur on that part of its face and develop scars and callouses. I'm not trying to scare you, just offer you the best advice that I can. The other terrible thing about those cages is that the wheels are far to small for anything but a mouse or dwarf hamster. The only thing those cages have going for them is their price.
The Crittertrails and SAM cages, while fun looking, are not at all practical. They are very hard to clean and even harder to get the hamster out of. They can get a bit expensive and really are just not worth what you would pay for them. If you are really drawn to the tubes and mazes, perhaps just get one as a playground but I wouldn't recommend them for their cage. The tubes would have to be taken apart and cleaned each week and that would get pretty old by the second cage cleaning. It is also hard to see you hamster in these kinds of cages.
If you're concerned with finding a cheap way to house just one hamster, here's my suggestion. Purchase a 10 gallon aquarium for $10, a metal tank lid for $10 (sold in the reptile row/area), a chew-proof, climb-proof water bottle (made by Lixit) for $6, a plastic solid 8" exercise wheel by Super Pet (called a Comfort Wheel) (small wheels- anything with a diameter less than 8"- and "normal" metal bar ones are harmful) for $5 and a hut for $5. This will give you the basic set-up for under $40. If you have a Pet Supplies Plus near you, shop there, they're cheaper and carry all the products I've listed.
One of the new alternatives that we hamster breeders are using are plastic bins. These make great cages! They are very inexpensive in that you can buy a bin for less than $10. There is a little bit of manual labor involved but it's worth it. The bins are light and very easy to carry and move and best of all, they are extremely easy to clean. The bedding doesn't stick to them the way it does in any of the above mentioned cages. Get a clear bin and you can easily see your friend. Get one that's tall enough to hold the wheel when the lid is on.
Here is a California Hamster Association article on how to convert a plastic bin:
http://www.geocities.com/calhamassoc/fea...
-Janice
http://www.holmdenhillhaven.com...
Depending on the type, one with bars is best it gives the hamster excersize climbing up it, plus you can get one with attachments so it isnt bored. A plastic was is good for starting out but with them the hamster will become bored after awhile so its best to go straight for a barred caged
the best cage for a hamster is a 10 gallon aquarium and probably the cheapest. iall you need is a screen cover that attaches tightly to the tank. hamsters can chew their way out of plastic and wire cages. it is also the easiest to clean. take your hammy out and place him in a clear plastic hamster ball and let him roll around while you are cleaning it!! make sure the cleaning agents you use are safe for animals!
You have to get a cage that has a tiny house and a exercise wheel. Oh yeah, buy some sawdust too and spread it on the base of the cage.
the best design I have had as far as Hamsters go is very simple. just a white grid cage for the top and the four walls and for the bottom it was heavy duty plastic (designed so the bars would snap into grooves halfway up the plastic, it was also easy assembly and only 20$), and believe me, my Hamster tried to chew it's way out theres a hole in every corner (very tiny though no where near big enough to even get a ham's paw through) but the plastic was made so that it could never be able to chew a hole anywhere near being able to escape through. I got it at petsmart and i have never had a ham escape from it. (the other ones I had they did but i always keep my room's door shut so i was able to find them) It is easy to clean though I would put something under it because shaving do go over the sides and make a mess.
I highly recommend critter trail cages. I have the Critter Trail 3 and the Critter Trail 2. They are great cages. If you don't get Critter Trail cages, then make sure you get a cage that does not have wire floors, they can get their feet stuck and they can break. Same goes for the exercise wheel, make sure its plastic. Good Luck!
Its always a good idea to give any rodent a cage with a few levels ... it keeps them busy ... My hamsters cage has three levels ...
The first level is where his main source of food and shelter is as well as his exercises wheel
the second level I have a little hut that has a few differant holes in it .. he like to go up there and nap
the third level is where I put his fresh veggies ... this keeps him active ... he knows where to go to get his veggies
Also once every couple of days I hide about 6 or 7 Little dry treats around in his cage ... this keeps him foraging ... that makes him feel like he is still independent LOL
you should also get him a ball so he can rome around the house for an hour or so!!
Usually the best kind of cage to buy with levels would be a small Rat cage ...
Good Luck
What kind of hammy are you getting? Any hamster cage will work. Its whatever looks like your hamster would have fun in. If you have a Targot somwhere where you live they have a really nice hamster cage. And stuff thats good for your liitle friend.
crittertrail Dazzle sold at petsmart and petco
plastic types of cages would do. just make sure that it is big enough for your pet.
Here is my guide to cages found on my website http://www.freewebs.com/hamsterhighway/i...
It has all you need to know, plus my reccomendations!
Any other question e-mail me @ joe10994@comcast.net
BUT FIRST LOOK AT MY SITE
First, for regular hamsters. The most common type is an Aquarium. They have plenty of good reasons to buy one. One is there is an extremely clear view of your pet. They give enough room to house about four adult dwarfs, or one Syrian and are easy to maintain. They're very inexpensive (approximately $10 if you get a small one). You will need a wire cover as well. They're hard to knock over, safe, and escape-proof, if you get clips for a few bucks. Keep it out of direct sunlight and your hamster will be just fine. The best thing about aquariums, though, is the fact that they're so easy to clean out.
Second, is wire cages. Wire cages are well-ventilated, sturdy, lightweight, fairly easy to clean, and very economical. They cost anywhere from $8 to $20 dollars, depending on size. The only problems are the fact that drafts easily penetrate the cage and can cause pneumonia in the hamster. Also, hamsters tend to kick the bedding out of the cage and make a big mess. Otherwise, these homes are easy to maintain and easy to carry around, plus there are usually a few levels for fun!
Last is HAMSTER PARADISE! Plastic Homes. They have plastic bottoms,wire walls, plastic tops, usually tubes for fun, an exercise wheel, a petting zone, and more! They are commonly refereed to as Crittertrails, Habitrails, or SAM cages. They're colorful, durable, and fun to piece together. Hamsters enjoy them very much. These cages are considerably more expensive than wire cages or aquariums. They range from $30 to $90 dollars. You can buy additional add-on tubes to give your hamster more play areas. Also, water bottles, food bowls, and wheels are positioned on the outside of the home, allowing more running and nesting space for your dwarf. The tubes are a little tricky to clean out, but as long as you clean the cage weekly, it's not usually a problem. They can have infinite Accessories, and are very fun! Perfect for any hamster!
(This Is My Reccomendation, as you can get a small cage, then slowly add on to it as the years go by) (plus its just HAMSTER PARADISE)
------------------------------...
(INCASE YOU GET A DWARF)
For Dwarf Hamsters, the cages have to be a bit different. The plastic homes are ok for fat dwarfs only, (about 30% of the time but you dont want to risk it)because they are too small for the tubes when they are vertical. There are special cages for mice and dwarfs so don't worry. Also, don't get a wire cage if it has bars more then .5 CM apart. There is a high chance the dwarf will be able to squeeze through and escape!!! If i were to get another dwarf, i would get an aquarium tank, they are perfect for them!! GOOD LUCK!!!!!!
What cage should i get for my 3 new male gerbils??(link included)?
i am getting 3 male gerbils in a couple of weeks and i want the perfect cage.
http://www.petco.com/product/8295/coast-...
http://www.petco.com/product/8305/coast-...
http://www.petco.com/product/8304/coast-...
http://www.petco.com/product/14897/small...
http://www.petco.com/product/8335/coast-...
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
Answers:
i like the 5th and 6th ones. they look like fun for ur gerbils. just be aware that wire floors or platformes could hurt ur gerbil's feet. im not positive it would but just be on the safe side. i think the 5th one would be the best. just make sure theres enough room for all of them. also some of the last ones u posted are way to small. good luck with ur gerbils.
addition:
dont get an aquarium as some one suggested. it has horrible air circulation.
get a 25 gallon aquarium. they are much better. most gerbils spend their whole day chewing through the cage slots. and he will get through eventually. dont get a plastic one. glass aquariums are much better for odor and they can stay warmer. and plus, it keeps the cats or dogs out.
good luck!
The 6th one down looks perfect. Have fun with your little cuties.
I personally like the 5th one. It seems to be the most spacious, you need to check when you go buy the cage that the wire will not hurt your gerbils feet, if they say that for whatever the reason it is harmful on gerbils feet, line the ramp with some carpet.
You will need to take out the wheel. Wire wheels can actually amputate the tuft at the end of a gerbils tail. Alternatively you can just cover the rungs with paper or masking tape to make it safe for your gerbils.
This site is all about gerbil cages:
http://www.petwebsite.com/gerbil_caging.
This site is all about gerbil wheels:
http://www.twinsqueaks.com/tips-archive/...
You need to put Gerbil's in a tank, as they will chew anything that is plastic! Take a look in the trade-it maybe, or I don't know if Pets at Home sells tanks! They can be a little pricey, but at least it will keep them inside! Good luck!
http://www.petco.com/product/8295/coast-...
http://www.petco.com/product/8305/coast-...
http://www.petco.com/product/8304/coast-...
http://www.petco.com/product/14897/small...
http://www.petco.com/product/8335/coast-...
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_d...
Answers:
i like the 5th and 6th ones. they look like fun for ur gerbils. just be aware that wire floors or platformes could hurt ur gerbil's feet. im not positive it would but just be on the safe side. i think the 5th one would be the best. just make sure theres enough room for all of them. also some of the last ones u posted are way to small. good luck with ur gerbils.
addition:
dont get an aquarium as some one suggested. it has horrible air circulation.
get a 25 gallon aquarium. they are much better. most gerbils spend their whole day chewing through the cage slots. and he will get through eventually. dont get a plastic one. glass aquariums are much better for odor and they can stay warmer. and plus, it keeps the cats or dogs out.
good luck!
The 6th one down looks perfect. Have fun with your little cuties.
I personally like the 5th one. It seems to be the most spacious, you need to check when you go buy the cage that the wire will not hurt your gerbils feet, if they say that for whatever the reason it is harmful on gerbils feet, line the ramp with some carpet.
You will need to take out the wheel. Wire wheels can actually amputate the tuft at the end of a gerbils tail. Alternatively you can just cover the rungs with paper or masking tape to make it safe for your gerbils.
This site is all about gerbil cages:
http://www.petwebsite.com/gerbil_caging.
This site is all about gerbil wheels:
http://www.twinsqueaks.com/tips-archive/...
You need to put Gerbil's in a tank, as they will chew anything that is plastic! Take a look in the trade-it maybe, or I don't know if Pets at Home sells tanks! They can be a little pricey, but at least it will keep them inside! Good luck!
What cage is better a tank or cage for my rats?
I am gettin two female rats so should i use a tank or cage
Answers:
A cage, for sure. Rats like to climb up and down the bars of their cage, which is obviously not possible with a tank. Also, two rats will urinate a lot, so they will need good air circulation. Tanks will get filled with ammonia. Also, cages are a lot easier to clean because they have detachable trays.
The cage should be as tall vertically as you can make it. Again, this is because rats love to climb. I use ferret or rabbit cages for my rats, because they come with multiple stories and lots of ladders. A ferret cage like this: http://www.petsolutions.com/images/200/4... is ideal for rats.
Good luck. My bottomline advice: don't get a tank. They will not be happy.
Go for a nice wire cage with at least two levels. You would need at least a 10 gallon + tank for two full grown rats and that's just way too heavy to move to clean. Wire cages allow for better ventilation as well.
The cage I have for mine is 30x30x14 with three levels and I think it's the perfect size for my two rats, but it takes a lot of room, so it's understandable to need a cage that's a little smaller.
A cage, a multi-level one if you can afford it. Just be sure that the spaces between the wires aren't big enough for the rats to escape out of--rabbit cages are unsuitable for rats, for instance, because the wires are spaced too far apart.
They'll enjoy climbing on the wires, and the ventilation will be better. Remember, plastic-bottomed cages are the ideal--with a wire-bottom cage, rats can get bumblefoot.
It depends how big your pets are. If they are babies or pretty small, don't get a cage unless the bars are very close together, or else the pet might squeeze through (it's what happened to me). If the rodent is pretty big, then get a cage.
A tank is for rodents that are pretty small and that they'd sqeeze through cage bars. When my hamster had babies, we put the babies and the mother in the tank. Does that help?
I had one named Stella I bought a cage and he chewed the metal and got out. When I got him a tank he loved it more space and I had latchs for the lid so he couldnt open it.
As the first 2 answers said, a cage is better.
Tanks offer very poor ventalation which can lead to many medical issues. Tanks also give nothing to climb on, rats are climbers, runners and jumpers.
Cages offer optimal ventalation, climbin, jumping and running room.
You should look for an all wire cage with a solid metal bottom. That way they cannot chew through it.
PetSmart has great cages for this. For 2 females, they have an all white wire cage with a purple bottom. It has 3 levels and plenty of space for them. It's very easy to hang toys and comfy beds in.
It costs about $40, but it's well worth it. I have never had an escape problem with these cages and they last the rats life time and then some.
There are a lot of web sites with cages that are great too. If you look around you can find some great things for rats. (Don't use a ferret cage, they are good for adult male rats, but even then it's questionable because most rats can get out of the spaces easily. My biggest adult female can get out of the ferret cages in about 3 seconds.)
I hope this helps...GOOD LUCK!!
cage because it is more comfortable!
well i have two female rats and they live in a 50 gal. tank and they are quite happy in it i know they are expensive but they work great but you could also use a cage for ferrets or chinchillas
I would reccomend a cage!!
A glass tank does not give very good ventalation where a cage would. Plus rats love to climb and a cage allows them to do this
Answers:
A cage, for sure. Rats like to climb up and down the bars of their cage, which is obviously not possible with a tank. Also, two rats will urinate a lot, so they will need good air circulation. Tanks will get filled with ammonia. Also, cages are a lot easier to clean because they have detachable trays.
The cage should be as tall vertically as you can make it. Again, this is because rats love to climb. I use ferret or rabbit cages for my rats, because they come with multiple stories and lots of ladders. A ferret cage like this: http://www.petsolutions.com/images/200/4... is ideal for rats.
Good luck. My bottomline advice: don't get a tank. They will not be happy.
Go for a nice wire cage with at least two levels. You would need at least a 10 gallon + tank for two full grown rats and that's just way too heavy to move to clean. Wire cages allow for better ventilation as well.
The cage I have for mine is 30x30x14 with three levels and I think it's the perfect size for my two rats, but it takes a lot of room, so it's understandable to need a cage that's a little smaller.
A cage, a multi-level one if you can afford it. Just be sure that the spaces between the wires aren't big enough for the rats to escape out of--rabbit cages are unsuitable for rats, for instance, because the wires are spaced too far apart.
They'll enjoy climbing on the wires, and the ventilation will be better. Remember, plastic-bottomed cages are the ideal--with a wire-bottom cage, rats can get bumblefoot.
It depends how big your pets are. If they are babies or pretty small, don't get a cage unless the bars are very close together, or else the pet might squeeze through (it's what happened to me). If the rodent is pretty big, then get a cage.
A tank is for rodents that are pretty small and that they'd sqeeze through cage bars. When my hamster had babies, we put the babies and the mother in the tank. Does that help?
I had one named Stella I bought a cage and he chewed the metal and got out. When I got him a tank he loved it more space and I had latchs for the lid so he couldnt open it.
As the first 2 answers said, a cage is better.
Tanks offer very poor ventalation which can lead to many medical issues. Tanks also give nothing to climb on, rats are climbers, runners and jumpers.
Cages offer optimal ventalation, climbin, jumping and running room.
You should look for an all wire cage with a solid metal bottom. That way they cannot chew through it.
PetSmart has great cages for this. For 2 females, they have an all white wire cage with a purple bottom. It has 3 levels and plenty of space for them. It's very easy to hang toys and comfy beds in.
It costs about $40, but it's well worth it. I have never had an escape problem with these cages and they last the rats life time and then some.
There are a lot of web sites with cages that are great too. If you look around you can find some great things for rats. (Don't use a ferret cage, they are good for adult male rats, but even then it's questionable because most rats can get out of the spaces easily. My biggest adult female can get out of the ferret cages in about 3 seconds.)
I hope this helps...GOOD LUCK!!
cage because it is more comfortable!
well i have two female rats and they live in a 50 gal. tank and they are quite happy in it i know they are expensive but they work great but you could also use a cage for ferrets or chinchillas
I would reccomend a cage!!
A glass tank does not give very good ventalation where a cage would. Plus rats love to climb and a cage allows them to do this
What cage for a guinea pig?
this is an update on my other question sort of. i want to get a skinny pig (hairless guinea pig) and i was wondering if they got any bigger than a regular haired cavy, because i saw one in the petstore that was way bigger than my cavy (maybe my cavy was small?)
also is this cage size big enough for one? (in inches) 42 L x 18 W x 24.5 H around there, please answer
does anyone know any web sites i could get a hairless piggy for under $60 because the ones here are $64 and i think thats kind of expensive thanks
Answers:
I think MemphisGal is wrong.. well ye they do require more care but they are as healthy as a regular guinea pig just with no fur. If your mother cant have a fur guinea pig and u want one than get it. But you will have to spend more money than just 60$, you need suplies, vet bills, and ect. So if u can only spend 60$ dollers than dont buy a guinea pig because it needs proper care that costs more that $60 dollers. But I am a fan of guinea pigs and I think a skinny pig is as great as a regular one but u have to be sure to keep there skin clean and not be to cold or warm
I have two guinea pigs and I'm pretty sure that's roughly the size of their cage and it works great! So that shouldn't be a problem. On sizes I'm not sure so why don't you try googling it and see what you come up with? So sorry I don't know any websites either but once again, try googling. But $4 shouldn't make any difference. If you don't mind paying $60 for one then you shouldn't mind paying $4 more. Good luck with it all and I hope you find a good one.
Hailess pigs have VERY strict requirements. They have to have a heat source to keep warm and are riddled with sickness. Please don't buy one or support the breeding of this kind of pig (or any pig). Hairless pigs have only 1/2 the life span of a normal pig and you will spend 2-3+ times as much on vet bills.
If you have done the research, then you know how horrible it is for these little guys to even exist. They are sickly little guys who live less than half the life span of a normal pig, that's when taken care of perfectly.
If you decide to adopt a skinny pig, just be prepared.
That size cage is too a tad too small. You need at least 36" by 30" for one pig. www.guineapigcages.com
yes that cage would work
Well...
That cage is plenty big!! Even 41 by 20
would be good!! Your piggy is probably
small!!
Hope I helped
~Good luck!
$64 is kind of expensive? Are you prepared to spend HUNDREDS on possible vet bills? Ask yourself that question seriously, and ask your mom, because she's the one who'll probably have to pay them. If the answer is no, don't get the guinea pig.
*they are as healthy as a regular guinea pig just with no fur*
Laughter P, what is your basis for this answer? Go over to GuineaLynx and ask the vet techs and guinea rescues what their experience with hairless pigs is, and I can guarantee they will tell you they are not as healthy.
The hairlessness is a (deliberatly bred) genetic defect, and because of it their immune systems are not as strong as the furred variety. Skin cancer rates are sky high. I don't believe I've ever heard of a Skinny that lives more than a few years (average lifespan for a guinea is 5 to 7).
also is this cage size big enough for one? (in inches) 42 L x 18 W x 24.5 H around there, please answer
does anyone know any web sites i could get a hairless piggy for under $60 because the ones here are $64 and i think thats kind of expensive thanks
Answers:
I think MemphisGal is wrong.. well ye they do require more care but they are as healthy as a regular guinea pig just with no fur. If your mother cant have a fur guinea pig and u want one than get it. But you will have to spend more money than just 60$, you need suplies, vet bills, and ect. So if u can only spend 60$ dollers than dont buy a guinea pig because it needs proper care that costs more that $60 dollers. But I am a fan of guinea pigs and I think a skinny pig is as great as a regular one but u have to be sure to keep there skin clean and not be to cold or warm
I have two guinea pigs and I'm pretty sure that's roughly the size of their cage and it works great! So that shouldn't be a problem. On sizes I'm not sure so why don't you try googling it and see what you come up with? So sorry I don't know any websites either but once again, try googling. But $4 shouldn't make any difference. If you don't mind paying $60 for one then you shouldn't mind paying $4 more. Good luck with it all and I hope you find a good one.
Hailess pigs have VERY strict requirements. They have to have a heat source to keep warm and are riddled with sickness. Please don't buy one or support the breeding of this kind of pig (or any pig). Hairless pigs have only 1/2 the life span of a normal pig and you will spend 2-3+ times as much on vet bills.
If you have done the research, then you know how horrible it is for these little guys to even exist. They are sickly little guys who live less than half the life span of a normal pig, that's when taken care of perfectly.
If you decide to adopt a skinny pig, just be prepared.
That size cage is too a tad too small. You need at least 36" by 30" for one pig. www.guineapigcages.com
yes that cage would work
Well...
That cage is plenty big!! Even 41 by 20
would be good!! Your piggy is probably
small!!
Hope I helped
~Good luck!
$64 is kind of expensive? Are you prepared to spend HUNDREDS on possible vet bills? Ask yourself that question seriously, and ask your mom, because she's the one who'll probably have to pay them. If the answer is no, don't get the guinea pig.
*they are as healthy as a regular guinea pig just with no fur*
Laughter P, what is your basis for this answer? Go over to GuineaLynx and ask the vet techs and guinea rescues what their experience with hairless pigs is, and I can guarantee they will tell you they are not as healthy.
The hairlessness is a (deliberatly bred) genetic defect, and because of it their immune systems are not as strong as the furred variety. Skin cancer rates are sky high. I don't believe I've ever heard of a Skinny that lives more than a few years (average lifespan for a guinea is 5 to 7).
What cage environment to give a 11 day old baby chinchilla?
I have a blue/grey baby chinchilla (female) 11 days old now. Both mum and baby are doing well.The cage is huge, 6ft tall so I had to modify it after the birth and took away all the pine shelfs in the upper 75% of the cage when baby was born. I didn't want mum dissapearing to the top and leaving baby and I didn't want to risk baby having a bad fall when climbing high.
I was thinking I might put a few of the wooden runs back with a couple of shelves so mum and baby can have a bit more fun. This would give baby a good 2-3ft worth of cage height.
Would that be safe?
Baby is growing up fast and has even been taking a sand bath every day for the last few days.
I would be interested to hear what type of cage environment other people give a 11 day old kit? And also how you change the environment at different age stages?
Answers:
First of all i would recomend blocking any of the higher levels if you can. My chin who recently had chins barley ever went up the cage because she was too busy with breast feeding and cuddling them. The cage- the holes in it should be a max. of 1.5 inchs sometimes they can squeeze through anything! Also you could give them blankets to lay out on the floor of the cage if you have a pull out tray -cage that way their feet won't get stuck. Personally 2-3 ft worth of cage height is a bit too much. if possible just 2 or less is better. one more thing- its recomended by many breeders to wait about 2 weeks until the baby can take a sand bath unless if the kit is being to do it on their own. Well good luck and good health to you and your chins! :P
My chins are in an adapted tank, but I left no shelves higher than 18 inches until the kit was separated and fully independent.
My chins are in a 6ft tall X 6ft long X 4ft wide cage with branches and tunnels all over the place and nothing is changed when the kits arrive
A tank with low shelving perhaps but just in case put soft material of some sort in the bottom of the cage so if it fell because the shelf was too high there would be no injuries.
Good luck by the way =)
I was thinking I might put a few of the wooden runs back with a couple of shelves so mum and baby can have a bit more fun. This would give baby a good 2-3ft worth of cage height.
Would that be safe?
Baby is growing up fast and has even been taking a sand bath every day for the last few days.
I would be interested to hear what type of cage environment other people give a 11 day old kit? And also how you change the environment at different age stages?
Answers:
First of all i would recomend blocking any of the higher levels if you can. My chin who recently had chins barley ever went up the cage because she was too busy with breast feeding and cuddling them. The cage- the holes in it should be a max. of 1.5 inchs sometimes they can squeeze through anything! Also you could give them blankets to lay out on the floor of the cage if you have a pull out tray -cage that way their feet won't get stuck. Personally 2-3 ft worth of cage height is a bit too much. if possible just 2 or less is better. one more thing- its recomended by many breeders to wait about 2 weeks until the baby can take a sand bath unless if the kit is being to do it on their own. Well good luck and good health to you and your chins! :P
My chins are in an adapted tank, but I left no shelves higher than 18 inches until the kit was separated and fully independent.
My chins are in a 6ft tall X 6ft long X 4ft wide cage with branches and tunnels all over the place and nothing is changed when the kits arrive
A tank with low shelving perhaps but just in case put soft material of some sort in the bottom of the cage so if it fell because the shelf was too high there would be no injuries.
Good luck by the way =)
What bunny breeds does Petland sell?
Please help thanks again? i made the store more specific.
Answers:
I answered your question in another section of the forum, but I wanted to make it clear that rabbits ARE NOT rodents! They are lagomorphs. And many pet stores market their rabbits as "dwarf," when in fact, they are not. A true Netherland Dwarf won't get any bigger than 2 lbs. when fully grown. They say they're dwarfs because their customers want to purchase an animal that will stay small.
look
It depends on what store it is, some don't sell rabbits. Rabbits are Petland are most likely to be by a breeder that didn't spend time with them and care, etc. You may come up with a mean little rodent that may become agressive and start biting. If you want to adopt, that is the best thing. Go to, www.petfinder.com for a place near you. Oh and to answer, mostly dwarf.
Answers:
I answered your question in another section of the forum, but I wanted to make it clear that rabbits ARE NOT rodents! They are lagomorphs. And many pet stores market their rabbits as "dwarf," when in fact, they are not. A true Netherland Dwarf won't get any bigger than 2 lbs. when fully grown. They say they're dwarfs because their customers want to purchase an animal that will stay small.
look
It depends on what store it is, some don't sell rabbits. Rabbits are Petland are most likely to be by a breeder that didn't spend time with them and care, etc. You may come up with a mean little rodent that may become agressive and start biting. If you want to adopt, that is the best thing. Go to, www.petfinder.com for a place near you. Oh and to answer, mostly dwarf.
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